American brand J.Crew has come under fire after it released promotional images suspected to have been created using artificial intelligence. Many online users have criticized the lack of transparency, while the brand claims it was merely an artistic experiment.
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“Vintage” Images Spark Doubts
J.Crew’s latest campaign, in collaboration with Vans, draws on its classic 1990s aesthetic. The visuals, released in early August on Instagram, featured the brand’s typical elements: smiling men, dynamic poses, and a nautical vibe. At first glance, everything appeared normal. However, several internet users and observers noticed some peculiar details: twisted limbs, inconsistent shadows, blurry textures, and misaligned stripes on sweaters. These anomalies are reminiscent of the common imperfections found in AI-generated images.
Blackbird Spyplane Raises the Alarm
It was the fashion newsletter Blackbird Spyplane that delved into the issue following an anonymous tip. Their investigation pointed out blatant anomalies in three photos from J.Crew’s Instagram account: a foot bent unnaturally, a distorted bike handle, and a misplaced reflection under a leg. One photo, paying tribute to photographer Bill Cunningham, even featured a camera that was unidentifiable. These clues strongly suggested that there was likely no human photographer behind the camera.
A Discreet Admission
Following the backlash, J.Crew quietly updated the captions of its posts to include: “Digital art by: @samfinn.studio.” Sam Finn, also known as “AI Sam,” describes himself as an “AI photographer” who blends reality and virtual elements using Midjourney and Stable Diffusion. However, none of the visuals clarified whether the models were real or generated. In a statement to The Cut, the brand merely mentioned its intention to “explore new forms of artistic expression” and to collaborate with “artists from various backgrounds.”
A Risky Strategy Amidst Skepticism
This approach certainly did not go unnoticed. Negative comments quickly multiplied under the posts. Content creators who have previously worked with J.Crew also criticized the campaign as “unhealthy” and “soulless.” Beyond the questionable aesthetics, the ongoing issue of transparency remains a concern. A recent survey indicated that only 38% of Gen Z and Millennial consumers are receptive to advertisements created with AI assistance, compared to 80% of marketing professionals (the potential cost savings explain their enthusiasm).
Fashion’s Authenticity Dilemma
J.Crew is not alone. Other brands such as Guess, H&M, and Toys “R” Us have also faced criticism after using AI-generated images. In an industry where visual authenticity is crucial, the representation of products worn by non-existent models is clearly problematic. What do you think? Is the use of AI photographers in the fashion world problematic or acceptable?